Reversible quilted jacket and hat – Otto 6/2010-40 & 39

I am still waiting for that baby.

Meanwhile I took a break from sewing for me and pulled out some quilted double-sided fabric from the stash for a jacket for Charlotte.

Ottobre 6/2010-40 Jacket side 1
Ottobre calls this jacket “Frieda”. I think I will call it “Applejack”. The fabric is cotton on both sides with a layer of batting in between, quilted vertically every couple of inches.

The jacket is reversible. Here’s the other side:

Ottobre 6/2010-39 side 2
You have to decide which side is the “right” side; the other side gets all the seams bound. I say “all,” but the pattern has cut-on sleeves, so it’s really the shoulders, underarm/sleeve, and collar seams. There are different techniques for each – it’s a nice pattern for that.  You can wear the collar open (as here) or closed (as in the previous picture).

Here is Ottobre’s version:

Ottobre magazine spread 6/2010
Here’s the magazine spread from 6/2010 for patterns 40 (the jacket) and 39 (the hat). Go to to order – back issues available. Their fabric is fleece on one side and outdoor fabric of some kind on the other side.  The fit is very bad in this photo – hope mine looks nicer than this!

You may think after my adventures with the double-sided cape that I would be put off double-sided fabric for life, but it turns out that I am foolhardy.  This pattern is rated two dots by Ottobre, and I would agree with that.  Although it only has four pattern pieces, it contains many challenging and devilish details.

First the pockets. These are substantially as the pattern shows, and that’s one of the reasons I love their kids’ designs – lots of cute details, like apple pockets. I appliqued the fleece leaves on with a decorative stitch which looks like leaf edges! Total accident, but very fortuitous.

Jacket pocket detail
The leaf applique is done first, then you bind all round, then attach the pockets with topstitching at the binding edge. Before attaching, they are a lot like tiny apple potholders.

Second: the binding. The pockets are bound, as is much of the jacket, with endless amounts of self-made bias tape. I used the bias tape tutorial here from La Sewista for most of it, but was not very happy because this produces tape that is not on the true bias, which I should have noticed before I had sewn it up. It worked but I was grumpy. It turned out that my first ten thousand metres of bias tape were not enough, so I cut a few more strips with the rotary cutter and seamed them on. This pattern takes 1 3/8″ bias tape, and commercial tape won’t do, since there are two application methods. The first is suitable for conventional double-fold tape, but the other method (used for the shoulder seams and inner collar seam) essentially folds the tape in thirds and wouldn’t do for commercial tape.

Cuff, sleeve and binding detail
Here you see two of the binding methods – standard at the cuff and a foldover method on the shoulder seam. For this latter method, you stitch the binding right sides together on the seamline, then fold in the opposited edge to the seamline and stitch down. I made this binding from plain red cotton.

Third tricky detail: the snaps. Here you make little circles to go under the snap rings. The circles are made of two layers of the bias-tape fabric stuck together with double-sided interfacing. I traced around a button to get the right width. They show the plain rings on both sides, I put pearl snaps on one side.

Collar and front detail
I made several snap samples — these are hammer-on snaps and can’t be fixed. You break pearl snaps if you put the male side of the snap on the back of the pearl. Or if you use the wrong kind of female side snap because you have put all your snaps together. Grr. Also, I used heat-soluable pen to mark the snap locations and of course you can see my dots and x’s through the snaps! Not noticeable in person and hopefully will disappear in the wash.

Here’s a better view of a little fabric disc under the snap rings and the front binding:

Side 2 snap detail
I think these little rings look nice! The binding is good considering I stitched from the other side, but that’s what the hand basting was for – yes, I hand basted all the bindings down. Binding is a tricky beast.  You can see some of the seam from the other side peeking out – I used pink thread in the bobbin for the initial seam to minimise the effect since I knew this was bound to happen.  

The binding of course takes the most time, especially since I haven’t got a binding foot that takes this size of tape. It occurs to me that the coverstitch with the proper binder would have made light work of this jacket. I did a lot of hand banding to make sure that the bindings didn’t shift.

Then, because the apple leaves are out there on their own, I made a hat (shown in light green in the Ottobre picture) out of the teal fleece. Here it is draped on the jacket.

With hat
You can see the deco coverstitches on the hat, which also cover the seam on top of the head.

I used some variegated pink pearl cotton in the looper of the coverstitch to finish the seams and edges. It was fun! It’s not as nicely done as the jacket but it only took about an hour as opposed to a couple of days.

Ottobre 6/2010-39 Coverstitch detail on hat
I’m so not a coverstitching expert and this is really pretty wonky, but I think she will like it.

She’s not home yet to try it on yet, but soon!

10 thoughts on “Reversible quilted jacket and hat – Otto 6/2010-40 & 39”

  1. I LOVE everything about it! I know a lot of little girls, and every one of them would be delighted to wear such a cute and cozy jacket. Thanks so much for sharing this project with us. Okay, can we please talk about binding? I usually make my own by cutting strips on the bias and then piecing them, and I’m happy with that. My specific question is about “the other method (used for the shoulder seams and inner collar seam) essentially folds the tape in thirds… you stitch the binding right sides together on the seamline, then fold in the opposited edge to the seamline and stitch down” — I am having trouble picturing this. Did you by any chance take photos of this part of the process? Do you place the raw edges of the binding on the raw edge of the shoulder seam and then stitch on the seam line? And then fold it over the raw edges and stitch again? Does it lie flat or do you need to add another row of stitching? Thanks again, Elizabeth.

    1. Sandra – I’m going to see if this works – I scanned the diagrams included in the pattern (sorry this issue is in Swedish – the word “bild” means “picture”)

      Binding description

      Picture 1 – regular binding, used on the edges. A second type of application of this is also used on the kimono sleeves/underarm seam, where you clip the curved edges before encasing the seam allowances, and you then stitch the edge of the binding toward the back.

      Picture 2 – the wider binding for the shoulder and collar seam. Seam 1 is the garment seam; Seam 2 stitches the binding on top of that seam, right sides together, seam 3 is stitched down flat after the remaining binding is folded in half on top of the seam allowances, which are pressed to one side.

    1. No fear of that – she’s tiny and slow-growing. Also the jacket has very long sleeves. I predict rather than heirloom it will be destroyed in the playground, and if not she has two younger cousins – but thanks for the nice thought!

  2. Thanks, Elizabeth, for helping me to understand the application of the wider binding. In the photo, it doesn’t look like seam 3 goes through all the layers, but rather encloses the 2 layers of seam allowances. Interesting, whether it does or doesn’t. I’m going to remember this application. Thanks again! It won’t be long; it won’t be long…

    1. On Picture 2, the binding doesn’t wrap round the allowances but is folded on top of them. You then stitch the edge of the binding down – that is you stitch through three layers (2 layers of binding and one of fabric). The seam allowances are just covered and don’t stick out to the edge.

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